Sorry if this was answered elsewhere but I couldn't find any info on this.
Is there an official pin outs documentation of the Axoloti board?
Some of the ports are self-descriptive enough. But I'm not electro-technically educated person and would like to know what is available for possible hacks. Thanks!
I don't find any descriptions, too. But you can easily check the available I/O pins, if you add e.g. an analog in object to your patch and check the drop down menu. SPI, I2C, analog write pins are explained at the Description field of the object menu. At the moment, I'm working out some examples for IC connections and there are some other threads by other user, where ADC (analog in) is described. Check the Hardware/Patch categories.
hopefully it will help everyone, who is experimenting with the IO ports… the overview will be extended with linked objects, later. one hint: the "pwm t8" object offers PC7 as a pwm output. PC7 is labeled on the old board version but not on the new pin row one .
Thanks, very useful (especially the recommended values). I've just finished making a midi controller (for the axoloti) using a teensy 3.2 board, and the funny thing compared to the axoloti, is that the digital button switches are connected to the ground on the teensy, but on VDD on the axoloti.
I've never seen a good all-in-one kit, but the various bits are cheap. Here are some amazon links, not sure if they work everywhere, but you should get an idea. If you're in the UK, I'd recommend a supplier like Bitsbox, because they have a relatively limited range, so it's less overwhelming.
1. These Pots look OK
- you should be able to force them into the pins on the breadboard, and they're cheap. - You're looking for 10-50k Linear pots, also often called B pots. So B10k is good, A10k isn't good. Single gang = one track. Dual gang = two tracks (like for a stereo volume control) you don't want dual gang for this kind of prototyping. - You want pots with PCB pins you can force into the breadboard. Some pots have solder lugs - to use those, you'll have to solder on some bits of solid core 22awg wire, which you can then force into the breadboard. Remember, if you buy the wrong kind, it's probably quicker to buy some more, rather than messing about trying to get them to work... - The neatest pots for breadboard are Alpha Vertical pots like these: http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94_325&products_id=2287 with the tabs snipped off.
2. This Breadboard looks perfect
- Any common breadboard will work.
3. These Jumper wires are messy but quick and easy
- Or you can use any SOLID CORE reasonably thin wire, 22AWG is good, and you'll need wire strippers
4. I use these really tiny tactile buttons
- Any through hole tactile buttons should work - 2 pins or 4 pins, experiment to make sure you've found the pins that are switched! - They're quite small and fiddly, but come in a bag of 50 so you've got plenty of spares...
5. I'd buy this bundle of LEDs
- Any LEDs will work. You'll probably need wire trimmers to make them a bit shorter and neater in the breadboard. When trimming, cut the long lead longer than the short lead, so you know which way round they go. - Some LED bundles include flashing or multi-colour LEDs, which could be really confusing in this context. - RGB (red, green, blue) LEDs are also fun if you connect them to 3 x PWM outputs.
6. If you use LEDs, you'll need resistors to protect the LEDs from excess current
- Any value from 220 ohms to 3,000 ohms (3K) should be fine - smaller the resistor value, the brighter the LED (ie 220R is very bright, 3K less bright). If you have 'ultrabright' LEDs, then they'll be REALLY bright with 220 ohm resistors, you might want 5k or 10k. They'll work fine, just burn your eyes - The resistor type (carbon, metal film etc) doesn't matter here. But be careful with the value. If you buy 220K rather than 220R or 220Ω (same thing) then you won't be able to see your LED glowing, it will be so pale. - Resistor value clarifier: Ohm = Ω = R. 1000 ohm = 1K. So 1000 Ohm = 1000Ω = 1000R = 1K. You sometimes see the notation where people write 4.7K as 4K7, I think because in old printing systems, the . might have got lost.
HAVE FUN, remember you probably can't break anything much.
I would also recommend getting a simple digital multimeter. It's really useful for testing and learning purposes. You can get them for less than 10€ and are definitely worth it.
For starting out a multimeter is one of the first things you should get. Not just for testing, but for understanding how the current is flowing through your components. Most modern How to books on electrical projects have a multimeter as the first tool you buy.