Which is the correct power supply to use the Axoloti as stand alone?
I'm now using a +12V / 2.0 A and another 5.0V / 850mA
Thanks
Which is the correct power supply to use the Axoloti as stand alone?
I'm now using a +12V / 2.0 A and another 5.0V / 850mA
Thanks
The DC barrel jack input uses a switching power supply, allowing a wide input voltage range and is capable of powering a USB device connected to the USB host port that consumes 500mA (the legal maximum for USB).
Any supply between 7V and 15V is fine, the current it needs to deliver depends on what you plug into the USB host port. Rough ballpark figures: at 7V, 700mA is fine, at 15V, 250mA is enough. Center pin positive.
DC-plug center diameter should be 2.1 mm.
(there is also a 2.5mm plug variant, will fit too but maybe bad contact, not recommended)
5V on the DC barrel input is not enough. The editor will show you the actual voltage from the switching power supply. That should not be less than 4.75V.
You can also connect a USB cellphone/tablet-style charger to the micro-usb connector.
Really nice to know..
Just tested a power supply for a sony ericson phone and it works fine very nice. Also have not tried connecting anything to the power inlet. Also nice to know it take a broad range of power supplies
600mA @ 9V sounds fine even when a device on the USB host draws 500mA. Don't have exact numbers near, sorry.
I had to get some polarity-converters since the polarity of the Axoloti is reversed from all my other gear.
Be aware of this when you connect your adapter
Center-positive, sleeve-ground is by far most common. Roland does the opposite.
DC plugs lack any standard, I hope one day a better alternative becomes common.
It's a hassle that the Boss/Roland center negative is kind of a de facto standard for guitar pedals when most everything else is the opposite.
Incidentally, measure your adaptors! I picked up some inexpensive, generic "arduino power supply" DC adaptors that were rated 9vdc/1000ma and the one I tested with a VOM was putting out almost 20vdc.
Is it possible to solder in a on/off switch somewhere in line (electrically) with the DC jack? I don't see any bridge or anything to cut.
Sorry, this obvious modification escaped my attention during design...
It's possible but you'd need to desolder the DC input socket before you can access the trace to cut.
(yellow is cut line, and it is on the component side, tracks on the component side are in red).
The DC socket is probably the easiest thing to desolder as it has wide holes.
As an alternative, you could add a panel-mount DC socket, ignore the on-board socket, and connect (via a switch) to X2...
Do you think this powerstation would be good for Axoloti? I need to power 4 axoloti but I don't want to use smartphone powersupply because of the noise.
that specific power supply won't work on the 9V 100mA ports (just saying), as they might burn out because of the power draw.
i personally don't recommend anything under 600mA on 9Vdc (5,4W), as the axoloti can consume up to 4-5W max in total (using usb host port, microsd, io ports and such)
while using a axoloti core without anything connected i recomend at least 200mA on 9V just to be safe.
so as long as you make sure the power supply aperage is above your need of current, you'll be fine.
I need to warn for hotplugging a non-isolated power supply with Axoloti Core board revision 1.0 - I assume (and internet confirms) these power outputs are not be isolated from each other. If the positive "side" of the plug makes contact before the negative "side" current take a wrong path.
Also they're center-negative. Axoloti expects center-positive.
I bought a universal AC adapter today and fried the board. I followed voltage recommendations above and had no other hardware connected. I can only assume the polarity was wrong, since the adapter a polarity switch whose label isn't very clear. After a short ozone smell, the board no longer powers up (and no response to DFU process).
I'm a cautionary tale, I suppose. Best wishes to this very cool community!
The adapter works in another device, so I don't think it's faulty. Thanks for the idea, though! It's a Rhino brand adapter from Fry's in the US.
I believe it must have been something else than reverse polarity power input on the DC socket, there is a protection diode for that. Just (re)tested applying 20V reverse polarity, no sign of any damage.
Note that other power inputs (usb socket, solder pads) are not reverse polarity protected.
I will check with @stasibear...