My finger drumming box


#1

I'm working on an instrument that is aimed at finger drumming.
I have two area's with sanwa arcade buttons.
The bottom row o the left is for playing synth sounds and the one above that is to pla ghost notes for the drums.
The three black buttons will be used for effects or switching but that's not sure yet.
The area on the right has the drums on the bottom row , some more synth sounds above that and again three black buttons for effects or switching.
Then i have 11 dials to control filters , effects , pitches , envelopes , etc... but that's still to be decided.
I use a teensy for extra inputs that go via usb cable to the axoloti.
The teensy also has the advantage of having a debouncing program in the code.
The axoloti is used for sample playing and effects.
I will probably add another axoloti because playing all those samples and then adding effects is a bit too mutch for one axoloti to handle.
Right now the box plays the drum and synth sounds and the black keys switch sample sets , the rest will be added when i figure out what i want to do.
Still having trouble playing a synth sound on different pitches because i get some lofi distortion when pitching up or down.
I'm using jaffa his table2 object with a table/play pitch object.
I have a problem with lighting too.
I added two green leds inside that would pulse with the bpm because i thought it would light up the box through the transparent knobs and white plexi but the green leds are hardly noticable.
Anyone have any idea's?
Stronger leds maybe?
Do they even exist at 3.3v?
I will add some lettering and stuff too later on when i figure out what everynthing will controll.
When i'm a bit more comfortable with finger drumming i will add a video but i need a lot more pratice.

Special thanks to janvantomme for the laser cutable axoloti frontplate.


#2

In this case, one LED per button would be a better option if you want to see the light through the side of the buttons.

A panel mount LED holder will probably be the best option if you want to mount an LED for BPM indication.


#3

I will try some more leds underneath the buttons.
I just need to figure out how many i can connect to one output on the axoloti.
I read that you can't connect leds in parallel and at this voltage i think you can only use one led with a resistor but i haven't checked if i can connect more leds if i add a resistor per led.
I think at least 8 leds would be needed and possibly twice that amount.
I only have 4 outputs left.
A panel mounted led for the bpm won't be necescary cause i will be playing with a metronome.
I just want some pulsing light inside the box.


#4

Have you tried playing in a dark room?


#5

yes offcourse :slight_smile:

I will be putting the leds on hold for now and concentrate on the software and practicing first .
As i understand it i will be needing an extra power supply to power all those leds.
Maybe some other lighting solution will come up eventually.
Something easier :slight_smile:


#6

Really neat! Looks like a nice dedicated instrument. Got any gutshots? I'm curious how you dealt with cable clutter :wink:


#7


Spaghetti madness :slight_smile:
I'm using pre-wired ten and 5 pin female/male connectors so i can unplug everything from the axoloti or teensy if needed.
The teensy and leds are still floating around in the box :slight_smile:


#8

Daaaaaamn a lot of spaghetti indeed. Somehow that's the reason I don't DIY this kinda stuff atm. Have you ever though of making a pcb for knobs and buttons? Could tidy things a bit up.....

How do the arcade buttons work for you so far? Got a link maybe? I really like to use these for footcontrollers :slight_smile:


#9

the soldering and wiring were actually pretty easy , i had a lot of practice lately :slight_smile:
The hard part was making the box.
It's the third version of box i made and i made this version in wood first but i didn't like it.
Now it's laser cut acryl.
I have only met a guy that can make pcb's a month ago so maybe in the future it's an option.
Right now it's time to have fun with the box , been working on it for too long now :slight_smile:

I like the arcade buttons but sometimes when playing softly they double trigger on the release.
I'm still working with bounce1 on the teensy , i thought i read that bounce2 also works on the release stage of the buttons.

I order them in holland .
http://www.arcadewinkel.nl/sanwa-obsc-30-pushbutton-zwart?search=sanwa


#10

Sure thing enjoy drumming man!

Thx for the tip. Is it really 5,49 per button? That seems quite pricey to mee. I remember getting them way cheaper of ebay from some arcade stuff supply in germany, but my requirements weren't too high since I used them only for controlling my looper.

Looking forward to see this thing in action!


#11

no it's 5,49 for the transparent buttons.
The normal versions cost 3,39.
http://www.arcadewinkel.nl/sanwa-obsf-30-pushbutton-grijs-(dark-hai)?search=sanwa&page=2


#12

very very nice project but...finger drumming without velocity\dynamic sensitivity?


#13

yes i know but the whole reason i started this project was because if you play those pressure sensitive pads they put on drum-machines and grooveboxes , you have to play them really hard for full velocity and my fingers start too hurt really fast.
Some medical condition.
otherwise i would just use a push controller or an mpc.
But the sanwa buttons can be played reasonably soft.
For velocity and dynamics i have the same sample's at full on the right and a little lower volume on the left and a volume control with a knob.
Like on drummachines where you have the accent button.
And i'm plannig on playing electronic music like drum 'n bass , breakbeat , dubstep , maybe some lofi hiphop or bithop , so dynamics isn't such an issue as it would be with other genre's.


#14

thanks for clarifiyng!! great project!


#15

The other alternative, though quite pricy, is using FSRs. They can be incredibly sensitive and dynamic, but they are like $6 each even in quantities. Most boxes that have dynamic pads on them have the rubber pads over FSRs and use them but those companies have the FSRs made in custom sheets shaped like the buttons above them (FSRs are made with a silk-screen tech). It would be nice to have a couple of "lead" pads with FSRs.


#16

Yes if i could design something soft enough but responsive enough to put on those FSRs, that could be an option.
Next time i put an order i will order a couple to try them out.
I allready saw some from adafruit.
I ordered some piezzo's too just for fun.
I'm going to try and stick them to some stuff and hit it with drum-sticks or just my hands.
If i find the time that is.


#17

I make Eurorack modules based on FSR's. I have a whole line of them. The ones to get are the 1.5" square ones. They have lots of area to hit and work perfect for this. I sometimes use cut up old mousepads to custom the response but the naked sensors are pretty robust if you don't use sticks or don't have long fingernails. If you dent them, they act like they are partially pressed. This is the biggest module we make with the large sensors, the FSR-4C/B. We also make a single and dual module using them.


#18

Why don't you use an expression pedal so your foot can control the sensitivity while you are figure drumming.. !:grin:


#19

that's a good idea to cut up a mouse pad.
Some of them are pretty thick so that might be shock absorbant enough to prevent the ache in my fingers.
If i use them as is , that would be like hitting on a table , right?
I see you have a module with an arcade button too :slight_smile:
your modules look pretty nice.


#20

Gavin : Yes i'm was thinking about using a footswitch or expression pedal.
Possibly a footswitch for kickdrum or open/closed hihat switching.
An expression pedal could be nice but i think you'd only be able to control one sound.
Using the same pedal to control the dynamics of the whole kit wouldn't sound natural.