sure - heres an SVG. its including the front plate and i removed all text except for in + out above midi + audio. . no guarantees that i did it right - if you want to wait a few days i can tell you how it turned out. 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rw0syrvm61a86a1/axoloti-case-v1.0.1_form.svg?dl=0
for example i just read in the instruction that the frontplate should be 2 mm, not 3mm.. blah.. not sure if that will make a big difference. .
If you use a 3mm frontplate, some of the connections like the micro-usb port will be hard to reach.
1.5mm should be even better, but that's not a standard thickness for acrylic plates.
thanks to @janvantomme ... Ive finally got my enclosures sorted out 
its a really nice design, and with patience and a steady hand easy to assemble.
I got Razorlab (UK) to cut them, used a 3mm acrylic at the front, Id say its fine, but makes the SD card a little tricky, but I just leave one in all of mine.
so here is my 'tiny' digital modular (its about 40x15x10cm )
Axolotis , PI 2 with HiFI berry DAC, BeagleBone Black + Audio Cape ... currently connected to a powered hub.
(Im going to replace the audio cape with Bela when released, and 1 more BBB + Bela)
need to do a bit of tidying up, slightly longer USB cables, then I plan to fit the enclosures in some kind of 'rack',
might change the BBB and PI to have matching cases too
I found a little organizing box at a nearby japanese household goods shop that happened to be exactly the right size. with a drill and exacto knife, I cut out clearances for the connections I needed.
Total cost: $1.49 US
Hi all,
Been lurking for a while and picking up useful tips to get Axoloti up and running. Thanks everyone.
I've gone with a sideways mounted enclosure using some stuff called PolyConstructo that I found in a charity shop and two Ikea letters that I found in the street. The front face was a thin piece of wood that I found in a Twinings tea caddy and drilled holes into.
Next stage: putting some pots onto this guy.
I made this today. 2mm acrylic glass plates on top & bottom. M3 x 30mm screws just fit. The spacers are cut to fit from a brass metal tube with a pipe cutter. Added rubber feet to prevent the little critter from slipping around on the table.
It's not really a "case" since the sides are open. Still, should prevent the PCB from accidental short-circuiting and such. Maybe until I get something printed.
Downloaded the enclosure files.
Its weird, but if I export the FPD files posted by Mike The Man, and open it in Inkscape its different, compared to the files posted by Jan.
Used the hole cutouts from Jan's design and it seems small. (1-1 print, it should be OK, cause the overall size of the panel is correct, but the holes are smaller.)
What am I doing wrong?
It may be the Inkscape DPI issue. Inkscape runs at 90DPI where most other programs are 72DPI hence you end up with around a 25% size difference.
http://support.ponoko.com/entries/20942477-Inkscape-problem-with-ponoko-templates
Printed @janvantomme's .stl files at the local library, they worked great, thanks! (Total cost: €1,60)
Hi everyone!
I just wanted to share this project with you. It's still just an empty shell but I hope I'll finish it soon. The plan is to have simple fx for bass guitar (distortion) and vocal (delay and lo-fi) and also a sampler. And maybe a simple synth (hence the "keyboard"). Display (blue graphic OLED), touchpad (taken from Korg NanoPad) and "keyboard" are (will be) handled by arduino pro mini. Few LEDs are still missing.
